Get to Know France’s West Coast: Pays de La Loire & Nouvelle Aquitaine

Orienting yourself with the western sectors of these regions is easy. Head south of Brittany, and you’ll cross the border to Pays de La Loire with its coastal departments, Loire Atlantique and Vendee, which nudges Nouvelle Aquitaine and its northwest department, Charentes Maritime.

The departments share similarities, including the most obvious: coastlines with stunning beaches stretching hundreds of kilometres washed by the Atlantic Ocean. Wetlands also feature extensively.

Forests are present throughout, though it is further south where a greater density is found. In the coastal areas, woodland has a specific and vital function in protecting the environment.

Hikers and mountain climbing enthusiasts will be happy to learn that the topography is varied.

Inland, frost and snow are common, particularly in the elevated areas. Snow rarely falls along the coast. In general, the coast enjoys a temperate, oceanic climate. Winters are mild, with an average of 5°C (41°F). Summers average 20°C (68°F), though temperatures may rise to 30°C plus (86°F) in July and August. The greatest rainfall occurs during the winter, and summers can be arid, with droughts not uncommon.

The Vendee and Charente Maritime are reputed to enjoy a micro-climate, making them among the sunniest places in France. To give you a comparison, Vendee averages nearly 2500 hours of sunshine per year compared to 2858 hours in Marseille.

For stable weather, early autumn is generally a great time to visit. The beaches are quieter, and the sea temperature is usually at its warmest. Although for many water sports enthusiasts, it’s wetsuit conditions all year round.

The coastal waters are nutrient-rich and stocked with exceptional aquatic diversity. Salt and freshwater marshes, wet meadows and peat bogs are typical, many of which have protected status due to their fragile ecosystems. They are home to hundreds of plant and insect species, attracting migratory birds and fish.

Dune forests of predominantly maritime pines and holm oaks help preserve the shoreline environment. The forest of La Coubre in Charente Maritime, for example, was planted in the 19th century to retard silting of the Arvert peninsula. Inland woods have a different mix. Vendee’s Mervent-Vouvant forest is deciduous and bisected by the Vendée and Mère rivers, which enables diverse wildlife to thrive.

The agricultural system of bocage is extensively used here. The technique works with environmental conservation by intermingling woodland and heath spaces, fields and hedgerows, which is purposed for arable and livestock farming.

The Loire Estuary at Saint Nazaire, the Gironde Estuary, and Pertuis Sea Marine Natural Park encompass widespread wetlands. Considered of international importance for their biodiversity, work is ongoing to protect these extraordinary environments while preserving the relationship between land and sea activities.

This area has many stories to share, from prehistory habitation to modern-day living.

Around 4,500 years ago, megaliths, the oldest known human constructions in Europe, were created. As noted below, you’ll find superb examples here. The area’s Celtic heritage is equally significant. Physical evidence includes religious sites, wayside crosses and Celtic designs in arts and crafts.

Traditionally a stronghold of Catholicism, churches and religious monuments are plentiful. Of associated noteworthy significance are the events in Vendee during the French Revolution of 1793. Vendee rose against the Republican forces because of their strict control over the Roman Catholic Church. This tragic period in the department’s history resulted in catastrophic failure and the genocide of thousands of Vendeans.

With its links to the Ocean, the area’s nautical legacy is fundamentally important. The coastline is peppered with unique lighthouses, harbours, fishing villages and ports, which have developed over centuries of maritime industry.

Folks here are passionate about food and wine production of the finest quality through carefully exploiting their natural resources. Choosing the best of the best from each department is nigh on impossible. Here are a few of the culinary stars.

Loire Atlantique

• Fleur de sel de Guérande from the Guérande peninsula salt marshes. Internationally renowned, the snow-white salt floats on the surface until it is delicately scraped off. Its taste is delicate and sea-salty.
• Curé Nantais cheese has been produced in Pornic since 1985. The straw-coloured cheese has a smoky, slightly spicy flavour and a soft, supple texture. It is made from cow’s milk, aged on spruced boards, and cleaned with salted water.

Vendee

• Using sustainable fishing techniques, La Perle des Dieux sardines are fished in the Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie waters. The fish is canned near the port and sold fresh in markets and fishmongers.
• Vendee beef cattle are born, reared and despatched in the same area. The beef enjoys PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) and the Label Rouge seal, which applies to products produced or prepared in a way that ensures superior quality.

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Charente Maritime

• Marennes Oléron oysters are the only ones in France with a PGI and a Red Label seal. A reason for their unique quality and flavour is due to the traditional techniques used to mature them in claires, small, shallow basins dug in the clay.
• Emblematic of the department is Cognac, a fine brandy distilled from white wine and aged in oak barrels. (Wine lovers can tour some famous vineyards that organise sampling events here.)

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With such a variety of activities available, deciding how to spend your time is simply a matter of taste. Here are some options, but please note this is not an exhaustive list!

Culture Vultures

The Loire Atlantique alone is home to over a hundred menhirs and dolmens. The greatest concentration in Vendee is in the south, the Dolmen de la Trébouchère being a fine example. The Dolman of Pierre Folle in Charente Maritime is similarly impressive. It’s a long list. It’s in Charente Maritime, where ancient settlements of a different kind exist.

The Meschers troglodyte caves overlooking the Gironde estuary were created millions of years ago by sea erosion into the limestone cliffs. Enlarged by man, these extraordinary dwellings have been used for several purposes, including Celtic granaries and smuggler hiding places.

Churches and ecclesiastical buildings are numerous and fascinating because of their historic and religious values. Architectures range from elaborate to very simple, and as this link indicates, sometimes the best examples are found off the beaten track.

As you would expect, there is no shortage of chateaux, and they differ in style and age. Chateau Talmont in Vendee, home of Richard the Lionheart, dates to 1020, making it one of France’s oldest castles. Chateau Goulaine in Loire Atlantique contrasts in design. Constructed in limestone and fortified in the 12^th century, its magnificence is as awe-inspiring as its exhibits and events. Incidentally, the chateau is reputed to be one of the oldest commercial wineries in the world.

You’ll find museums, memorials and art galleries throughout the area. Nantes, the capital of Loire Atlantique, has an eclectic culture focusing on inspiring the imagination. Among others, it is home to the celebrated Museum of Urban History, Natural History Museum and Jules Verne Museum.

La Roche-sur-Yon, the capital of Vendee, was founded by Napoléon using neoclassical architecture for its most emblematic monuments. Close by, and of particular note, is the celebrated ‘interactive’ Vendee History Museum with more than 3,000 artefacts.

La Rochelle, the capital of Charente Maritime, is particularly known for its Maritime Museum and iconic Vieux Porte physical landmarks. The medieval monuments, La Chaîne and Saint-Nicolas towers, and the Lantern tower have fascinating histories and, today, are used for exhibitions.

Nature Enthusiasts

Havens of the natural world, these examples give you an idea of the variety available.

• Dubbed the ‘Green Venice’, the Marais Poitevin straddling several departments is best explored using flat bottom vessels. Nearby the canals are nature reserves on the Île de Charrouin and around Nalliers and Mouzeuil-Saint-Martin.
• There are numerous outstanding nature and bird reserves on the coast, islands and inland. For example, bird observatories in Aiguillon Bay and the Bay of Bourgneuf enable enthusiasts to study indigenous and migratory species.
• Many forests have marked trails for nature lovers to discover the verdant interior, plants and wildlife.

Hikers and Bikers

Hiking, biking, and horse riding are excellent ways to tour the area.

Each department has recognised GR (Grandes Randonnées) long hiking routes and PRs (Promenades et Randonnées) shorter hiking routes. They’re a network of marked hiking trails maintained by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP), enabling users to enjoy the natural and cultural highlights.

Seadogs

With its coastline and network of more than four hundred navigable rivers and inland lakes, this is an ideal playground for learning and practising nautical activities.

Each department has beaches with a Blue Flag award. It denotes clean and hygienic bathing water and basic infrastructures for tourists. They are ideal family destinations where children can safely enjoy swimming and rock-pooling.

Several of the lighthouses along the coastline are open to the public. For example, the old tower in front of the famous Phare des Baleines (Lighthouse of the Whales) on the Island of Ré, which was built in 1682. It is one of the oldest lighthouses in France.

Festivals, Family Fun and Events

The area buzzes with activities for children of all ages.

Festivals

• Cultural events occur during the year, celebrating the area’s Celtic heritage. A flagship event is Celtomania in Loire Atlantique. It attracts artists from neighbouring Celtic countries and combines arts, including music, dance and storytelling.
• Attending festivals celebrating local products and customs in villages and towns is a great way to learn more about the area. They’ll typically include traditional costumed events, gastronomic displays and local produce.

Spectacles

• World famed for its epic productions, Le Puy du Fou theme park in Vendee presents shows depicting historical events from Ancient Rome to the World Wars. With animals, animation, and huge casts of actors, these shows are extraordinary and much loved by families.
• Equally spectacular is the Machines of the Isle of Nantes. Based in the former Nantes shipyards, the project features fantastic mechanical creatures, including a twelve-metre-high elephant.

Green Adventures

You’ll find exhibitions and learning events in several of the forested areas. Many also have adventure playgrounds. For example, Fontdouce, close to Saintes and Cognac, offers zip lines, outdoor laser, archery and bubble foot activities.

Exploring

Getting out and about is rewarding, especially when you discover one of the coveted Plus Beaux Villages de France. The award identifies rural villages with a rich cultural heritage. Throughout, the communities feature a variety of historic buildings, quirky shops, and ancient marketplaces.

Why not? Travel is straightforward, with each department well-serviced by air, rail and road links. Their proximity to major cities such as Paris and Bordeaux makes them attractive destinations for visits and work.

City life is vibrant and exciting. The departmental capitals are distinctly different and enjoy thriving economies. For those preferring a quieter pace, country villages with close-knit communities are equally alluring. These are the places where you’ll shop for fresh produce in the village markets while catching up on the local chat.

The combination of its verdant forests, Atlantic Ocean influences, and dedication to preserving nature makes the area a superb location for maintaining a healthy lifestyle. Add to this fair house prices and various holiday options, and you have the recipe for a stunning, much-loved part of France.

Find out more:

https://tourisme-loireatlantique.com/

https://www.vendee-tourisme.com/

https://www.guide-charente-maritime.com/en/tourism/discover/the-charente-maritime.html

Beth Haslam July 2024 

[The author’s information in this article is given in good faith based on their experience and the supplementary website material gathered during the research process.