Real Life Stories: Semi-Retiring and Setting Up a Retreat in the South of France

Barbara and Richard Simpson-Birks escaped self-employment in the UK and set up Le Manoir Retreat in sunny Languedoc

People decide to make a new life in France for a variety of reasons. But what they all have in common, it seems, is a love of the country and a spirit of adventure. Barbara Simpson-Birks certainly fits that description.

The adventure began when she and her late husband, Richard, took a trip to the Languedoc back in the 1990s. They knew little about the area but their interest had been piqued by Richard’s cousin, Walter Birks. He co-authored a book called The Treasure of Montsegur (1990), which explored the idea that the heretical Cathars were in possession of world-changing spiritual secrets and were guardians of the Holy Grail.

Needless to say, Barbara and Richard (affectionately known as Rocky by family and friends) didn’t find the truth. But they fell in love with the area. In particular, they were charmed by the Languedoc’s beautiful landscape, its more relaxed pace of life and (compared to touristy Provence) its tranquillity. Soon, they were holidaying  there several times a year and it wasn’t long before they began to think about making a permanent move, but not before an appearance on the popular TV programme Dragons’ Den. Thanks to an impressive pitch from Barbara, robustly supported by Richard, they were offered half of the £250,000 investment they wanted for their Tattoo Erase business (Barbara’s background is in advanced skincare). Sadly, they couldn’t secure the rest.

Nonetheless, this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. With time tapping on their shoulders, they took the bold decision in their 50s to escape the “stress of self-employment” (Richard ran two engineering businesses) for a new life of semi-retirement in the south of France.

Initially, they lived in their small holiday house (mostly paid for by an inheritance from cousin Walter) in the pretty village of Nébian at the heart of the Hérault department, now part of Occitanie. But later, out and about one day, they spotted a sizeable (6,650m2) plot of land for sale near Clermont-l’Hérault and duly bought it.

Fast forward through predictable planning problems to a decade or so down the line and they’d built two beautiful properties. They lived in the first of these for a while, then rented it out as two gîtes before deciding to sell it. But Norwich-born Barbara still lives in the second, Le Manoir Retreat.

As the name suggests, this is a luxury, maison de maître-style, holiday home for families or large (10+) groups. It also offers a retreat venue for a range of activities including yoga (from a ‘dedicated platform’), cooking, creative writing and music – there’s a grand piano in the lounge.

In fact, although built quite recently, Le Manoir has the feel from the outside of a much older property, with its pale-blue shutters and spacious courtyard enhanced by mature, Mediterranean planting and  an elegant water feature. Inside, it’s the same. Every room is tastefully decorated and most are furnished with English and French antiques, complemented by contemporary paintings and other objets d’art. Some of the latter are souvenirs from the couple’s travels to exotic countries in the Far East and other parts of the world. For chillier evenings off season, there is also a “fabulous wood-burning stove” that can be manoeuvred to face either the lounge or dining area.

In the studio, which is ideal for families, there is a retro jukebox and an array of brass instruments hanging artfully from the ceiling. But it’s the hallway that immediately catches the eye. Here, as well as an imposing grandfather clock, there is an OBE certificate proudly on display. This was awarded to Walter Birks in recognition of his distinguished service during the Second World War as a major in the army, and later as a government spy. He was quite a character, considering he also spent the late 1930s in the Languedoc under the wing of mystic and modern-day leader of the Cathar movement, Antonin Gadal. Of course, this formed the basis of his book. However, it appears that towards the end of his life, Walter completely changed his mind on the subject of the movement, dismissing it as nothing more than “occult nonsense”.

Historical debates aside, it is clear that Barbara is firmly focused on the needs of her guests. As she explains: “We built everything with a view to what we would like if we were paying to stay: picnics on arrival, good local wine, handmade local toiletries, Egyptian cotton sheets, fluffy towels and bath robes.”

There is also a strong accent on sustainability, with recycled doors and beams, air-to-water under-floor heating/cooling and solar water heating. Likewise, guests are encouraged to save their food waste for Barbara’s hens – the ‘girls’ as she calls them – who eat practically anything but are particularly partial to lettuce. In return, they provide fresh, organic eggs on a regular basis.

She also has two cuddly cats, Claude and Hector, for company and on occasion, wild animals. She was about to go to sleep one night when she heard a strange noise outside. At first she thought it was dogs, but looking out of the window she discovered two large wild boars (sangliers) taking a bath in the water feature. But, as Barbara happily acknowledges, that’s the flip side of living in such an unspoilt area “en pleine nature”. Apart from a few other properties, Le Manoir is surrounded by rolling hills covered by a patchwork of vines, garrigue and pine woods. To take it all in, guests just have to saunter up the slope to the superb infinity pool factory that made military uniforms for Napoleon – and, as mentioned, Clermont-l’Hérault, which holds one of the best weekly markets in the region. A bit further afield (40km), but within easy reach, is the capital of Hérault, Montpellier, with its delightful historic centre, and 15 minutes to the south the picturesque town of Pézenas. This was made famous by the celebrated 17th-century playwright Molière, but is equally well-known for its wonderful biannual brocante market, which attracts bargain
hunters from far and wide.

As far as attractions go, they’re spoilt for choice. Just a stone’s throw away, there is the Cirque de Mourèze – a dolomitic labyrinth that children and adults alike can enjoy – and just beyond that the extraordinary Lac du Salagou. If Mourèze has a lunar landscape, this is positively Martian, with its rust-red sandstone slopes sliding into the waters of the lake. In fact, this is a reservoir built in the 1960s, but it blends so beautifully into the natural environment you’d never know. It also offers a range of outdoor pursuits, an incredibly rich biodiversity, and is a paradise for palaeontologists and geologists. No surprise then that the area as a whole has been designated a Grand Site of exceptional interest.

Also on the doorstep are the charming village of Villeneuvette – formerly a royal factory that made military uniforms for Napoleon – and, as mentioned, Clermont-l’Hérault, which holds one of the best weekly markets in the region.

A bit further afield (40km), but within easy reach, is the capital of Hérault, Montpellier, with its delightful historic centre, and 15 minutes to the south the picturesque town of Pézenas. This was made famous by the celebrated 17th-century playwright Molière, but is equally well-known for its wonderful biannual brocante market, which attracts bargain hunters from far and wide.

On the coast, a short drive beyond, lies Sète, the ‘Venice of the Languedoc’, where visitors can enjoy superb seafood, a marvellous open-air theatre which hosts an annual jazz festival (Herbie Hancock played the last one), and a spectacular water-jousting tournament that takes place every summer on the Canal Royal. Not to mention surprisingly attractive Béziers overlooking the Canal du Midi, and the stunningly beautiful Haut Languedoc regional natural park.

Hérault is also experiencing a winemaking renaissance. Back in the 1980s, like the rest of the region, it largely produced cheap vin de table for the EU ‘wine lake’. But it is now a mosaic of successful wine producers, many of them small, independent and organic.

Virgile Joly, based in the nearby village of St-Saturnin, is a good example. He has built an excellent reputation for the quality of his ‘bio’ (organic) wines and earned many awards, the most recent of which was the IWSC (International Wine & Spirit Competition) Green Wine Initiative presented in London. Taking all this into account, it is no wonder that Barbara’s guests, who come from France and overseas, as well as the UK, leave as enamoured with the area as she is.

But life for her in recent years has not been without its setbacks. First, Covid delayed the launch of Le Manoir. Then, in spring 2022, she lost her beloved husband to Parkinson’s disease after he’d battled it for several years.

However, resilient as she is enterprising, Barbara is now training as a celebrant so she can offer weddings, naming ceremonies and “joyous funerals” tailored to her guests’ specific requirements. In fact, the idea came from Richard’s funeral, which was conducted by a celebrant and included one of his favourite songs, Queen’s wonderfully uplifting Fat Bottomed Girls. Barbara also wrote a love letter to Richard as a meaningful send-off. Altogether, it was a modern-style rather than traditional funeral, celebrating Richard’s life rather than mourning his death.

As for the longer term, Barbara is keeping an open mind. She has a notion to build a small place for herself at some point on the spare land beyond the pool and sell Le Manoir Retreat. But there are several practical issues to consider so she is taking bookings as usual for the foreseeable future.

Right now, she is taking each day as it comes, enjoying the company of family and friends and continuing to live life with the same ‘can-do’ approach that enabled her to prosper in France. As she puts it: “Richard died but my enthusiasm for life didn’t die with him.” Long may the adventure continue.

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