The Empty Diagonal of France: Where to Buy

You can find la vie douce in two peaceful and rural departments along France’s midpoint: Creuse and Corrèze are a little piece of paradise, writes Joanna Leggett…

France has many ways of describing itself. Because of its somewhat six-sided shape, it’s known as “Hexagone. Another term. that’s used to describe a wide swathe of the country is the “Empty Diagonal’. ‘Empty’ is a little misleading. Much of this “pathway’ running right through central France is lush, beautiful and full of its own culture, rich in food, history, landscapes and property.

The ‘diagonal’ is a band running from the departments of Les Landes, in the southwest near Spain, to the Meuse, close to Belgium and Luxembourg. It’s a fairly recent phenomenon in the country’s history and dates from the time when artisans and others seeking fortune left their rural homes.

Tourist maps have tended not to highlight these areas, despite there being much to see and do there. These departments follow a more traditional, peaceful way of French country life the France of our dreams: la vie douce.

The rural exodus dated from the early 19th century when countryfolk moved to cities, Paris in particular, spurred on by industrialisation or perceived urban glamour-someone had to build it!

For centuries, the City of Light attracted money, talent and opportunities like few, if any, other European capitals. In fact, it had its genesis during the reign of Louis XIV, when he drew nobility to his ‘home base’ Versailles, to us. Servants, cooks, gardeners, builders and skilled artisans were all needed and people came from all over France.

Two quiet and deeply rural departments lie in this Diagonal”. The Creuse and Corrèze are located in the Limousin (now part of the larger Nouvelle-Aquitaine region), south of the ‘central point of France in the old Berry province. And what pleasure and treasure they provide.

Importantly, housing here tends to be far better value. Villages and small towns buzz with life as inhabitants use them to live in, rather than racing to modern shopping precincts, supermarkets and chain stores. People here still shop locally, you can enter into a discussion at the butcher’s about how your meat might be cooked, buy seasonal vegetables at bustling markets and talk with neighbours in the boulangerie when seeking baguettes and a suitable tarte aux pommes ot gateau for the Sunday repas.

General stores provide a wide range of goods and when you do need a bigger supermarket and major shops, they’re never far away. It’s also easily accessed with airportsat Limoges and, seasonally, at Brive-la-Gaillarde In the Corrèze, as well as train networks to Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon and more.

With a gentler pace of life, people have time for one another. Sitting watching the parade of shoppers at a handily positioned cafe beside a market with a steaming hot coffee and perhaps a pain au chocolat is one of the simpler, and delightful, pleasures of life in France, and the Creuse and Corrèze have many to patronise.

Usually by coffee time at any country market, I’ll have a basket groaning in protest, laden with fresh seasonal veg and no doubt some plants, especially if there’s a stall (or the medieval town in the water, it takes your breath away. In Creuse, I have to mention Aubusson – a name synonymous with beautiful tapestries and carpets. Traditionally, these depicted landscapes, hunting scenes and idealised portraits. In the 20th century, Picasso, Miro and Chagall were actively involved in their art being translated into tapestry. Arguably best known for distinctive patterns and soft colours, Aubusson’s highly enviable carpets and rugs featuring flowers are immediately recognisable.

The town itself is charming, too-the vieille ville centres around a 17th-century stone bridge over the Creuse, built to connect workers homes and tapestry workshops, with houses clustered above and around the river.

Founded by Knights of St-John in the 12th century, the medieval town of Bourganeuf overlooks the Taurion valley. Its castle has three towers; one was built to accommodate an Ottoman prince called Zizim, captured in some crusade or other. He lived, I gather, very much en prince, as there are tales of harems and fine living. It was then used for crop storage until 1944 when the Nazis imprisoned in it members of the French Resistance, which was particularly active in these rural departments.

To some, this gorgeous part of France might be overlooked, however, the inhabitants of Creuse and Corrèze know better, as they live close to a little piece of paradise!

Joanna Leggett is marketing director at Leggett Immobilier-you can view the full portfolio of properties for sale in France at leggettfrance.com

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