French Property Location Guide: Creuse

A rural paradise, plenty of space – and lots of affordable properties in pretty villages and historic towns. Relax and enjoy a property hunt in Creuse with Leah Rottier…

With costs rising everywhere and the economic crisis seemingly here to stay a while longer, more and more of us are looking to get the most for our money. Tucked away in the centre of France, there is one small department that still manages to give homebuyers real value for money in these tough times – the stunning, rural department of Creuse.

This tranquil spot is rarely in the news and often forgotten, but don’t let its size and quiet reputation fool you – this idyllic department is full of beauty and character. With its magnificent forests, stunning lakes and friendly population, once you visit, you’ll never want to leave.

In the historic Limousin region, nestled in central France, Creuse is home to approximately 118,000 people – about a third of the population of two of its neighbouring departments Haute-Vienne and Allier – making it the second- least-populated department in France. There is plenty of space here, with an average population density of just 21 people per square kilometre, and nature is abundant.

The region is full of small towns and villages with nothing between them other than forests, fields of sturdy Limousin cattle and the occasional farmhouse. The towns are small – only one in the entire department has a population of more than 10,000 – but packed with character and beauty. In the west of the department, the lively town of Bénévent-l’Abbaye is a Petite Cité de Caractère with beautiful traditional stone buildings and a Romanesque abbey at its heart. It is the first sight you see when arriving in the town, and the interior is just as pretty as the exterior with its exquisite stained-glass windows and immense statues.

The commune welcomes thousands of visitors each year to see the glorious abbey, the Maison de Patrimoine and Le Scénovision (an incredible experience that takes you back in time to life in the region a century ago). It’s also on the Santiago de Compostela route, so hundreds of pilgrims pass through this beautiful village on their travels each year.

If you’re looking for an idyllic village lifestyle, with friendly neighbours and nature on your doorstep, then this corner of Creuse is for you. It’s amazingly affordable too. Three-bedroom village houses, about 100m² in area with a small garden, sell for €70,000-€90,000. They usually require updating, but are worth the investment. For less than €200,000, you can buy an entire farm to renovate, complete with outbuildings and two hectares of land – ideal for those wanting a large renovation project or to open a B&B or gîte complex with a spectacular backdrop. Mirella Carreron of agency IAD France lives in Bénévent. She says: “It’s a charming little town with everything: a supermarket, bakery, café, doctor, dentist and schools. People come here for the peace of the countryside with the advantages of a dynamic town. Every year, new artisans and shops set up business here.”

When discussing house prices in Bénévent and the surrounding villages, Mirella says: “Buyers are motivated by the attractive prices here, as well as the proximity to trains for the commute to Limoges, or even Paris.” Bénévent’s ideal location is echoed by Anthony Pachaud of Human Immobilier, who states: “Housebuyers love Bénévent for its accessibility.

It’s a small country town just 20 minutes from La Souterraine with its train station and access to the A20 motorway.”

Driving down the winding country lanes, rarely meeting another car, it’s easy to think you’re tucked away in the middle of nowhere, but don’t be fooled. Bénévent-l’Abbaye isn’t just close to La Souterraine, it’s only 25 minutes from Guéret, the capital of the department, with its large supermarkets, hospital and other amenities.

It’s also just 50 minutes from the commercial centres of Limoges in the neighbouring department of Haute-Vienne, and one hour from the airport there, making it an ideal base for those who want to live somewhere peaceful and rural but still have easy access to an international airport, as well as great shops.

Further east, the town of Guéret is bustling and lively, but with a population of fewer than 14,000, it is easy to navigate. Like every other préfecture in France, it has all the amenities you need for everyday life. There is a fantastic mix of great shops, essential services (large hospital, clinics and so on) and a wide variety of restaurants serving everything from traditional French cuisine to Chinese, Japanese and Middle Eastern cooking.

Tourists come here to visit the magnificent Château de Ste-Feyre on the outskirts of the town and to sample the Gâteau Creusois a delicious cake made with hazelnuts, which grow copiously here.
The housing market in this area centres on apartments and terraced houses. Maurice Marcon of Marcon Immobilier notes that many local workers choose to live outside the town, closer to nature, and make the short commute to Guéret. He says: “The surrounding countryside is incredibly beautiful and perfect for those who like to fish, hike or participate in sports.”

In the town centre, house prices are still very reasonable. A small, two-bedroom house of approximately 75m² costs around €100,000. If you’re looking for something bigger, you can find a five-bedroom house with a surface area of around 150m² and a garden of 800m² for less than €160,000. There are definitely some bargains to be found here.

Andy Bassam runs a successful business in Guéret with his wife. The couple bought their house in Creuse in 2005, tempted by the low prices in the region and the abundant nature, and their shop – The British Market Stall – is based here. “We like outdoor pursuits, and Creuse has excellent traffic- free roads for cycling and also walking trails,” he says.

The real splendour of this large town is not found within its environs, but just a few kilometres south. In the blink of an eye, the sprawling supermarkets and residential streets quickly turn into a magnificent vista of woodlands, dense forests, winding tracks, steep hills and lush valleys. You are transported to another world where silence reigns and it’s hard to believe you are just minutes from an urban centre.

Here, nature is at its finest and there are lots of attractions for both residents and tourists alike. Spend an afternoon figuring your way out of the giant hedge maze spread over two hectares, or stroll through the magnificent Les Loups de Chabrières animal park and observe European and Canadian wolves at play. This park is nestled in the depths of the majestic Chabrières forest, and hikers come here from all over the world to explore the myriad of pedestrian and bike trails. Some are even lucky enough to catch sight of the wild boar and deer that call this territory home.

Nature surrounds the capital, with one of the department’s most spectacular gardens – Val Maubrune – lying just to the west of Guéret. This botanical delight is open to the public from May to October every year, and thousands of locals and tourists alike visit more than three hectares of magnificent flora to recharge their batteries in the haven of calm here.

Known worldwide for its rich tapestry history, Aubusson is a delightful mix of quiet, narrow streets and large, multi-storey houses peering over the Creuse river. The crumbling ruins of a former castle, le Chapitre, loom high above the town and the stunning old bridge, Pont de la Terrade, is a photographer’s paradise.

From here, the views down the river take your breath away – the houses are so close to the riverbanks, they appear to be floating on top of the water when the morning mist descends upon the town. The amazing landscape of hills, mountains, valleys and forests is clear evidence that you are stepping into the Massif Central.

The town entices visitors year-round with its vibrant history, and Aubusson tapestry was recognised as a Unesco Intangible Heritage in 2009. It’s impossible to escape tales of weavers here, with a magnificent museum showcasing tapestries and carpets from centuries gone by, and the Maison du Tapissier located in a typical Creusois house exploring the history of tapestry. Maurice Marcon estimates that Aubusson’s title of Cité Internationale de la Tapisserie draws over 50,000 visitors every year. No mean feat for a small town hidden away in central France.

Househunters come here for the spectacular scenery and quiet way of life. In a department known for its green landscapes and tranquillity, Aubusson is the epitome of a haven of peace. House prices follow the pattern of the rest of the department, remaining relatively cheap and affordable. If you’re up for the challenge of a complete house renovation, prices can start as low as €13,000 for a building of approximately 80m². For those looking for more immediate comfort, a large house (around 200m²), ready to move into, on the heights of Aubusson with an amazing river view, will cost €180,000-€200,000.

Philippe Petit of Agence Creusoise notes that Aubusson is a popular choice for buyers as “the southern part of the department is hillier, and the rolling landscape attracts buyers more than the flatter areas in the north”. Describing the architecture, he also explains that house styles in the south are more typical of the local Creusois style, with “houses and outbuildings in exposed granite and stone walls, with large chimneys, exposed beams, and gardens enclosed by stone walls.”

Approximately one-quarter of the house purchases in his agency are from buyers looking for second homes in tiny hamlets outside Aubusson, tucked away in secluded spots of natural beauty. He points out that buyers may originally buy properties here as second homes, but they eventually become primary residences as people quickly fall in love with the area and everything that it has to offer.

In the southeastern corner of Creuse, Aubusson gives you easy access to Clermont- Ferrand, as well as Limoges (both approximately 85km away), so it’s the ideal base for living a rural life with a choice of larger towns within a reasonable distance.

It’s easy to see why Creuse is often referred to as France’s best-kept secret, as it has so much to offer. Whether the flatter landscape of the north, and towns such as La Souterraine with easy access to trains and the motorway, are what you are looking for, or you prefer the forests, hills and valleys of the south with the rich heritage of towns such as Aubusson, in Creuse you can be assured of a tranquil lifestyle with spectacular nature, friendly people and fantastic value for money when it comes to the housing market.